|
Roofing Construction & Estimating Published by: Craftsman Book Company Installation, repair and estimating for nearly every type of roof covering available today in residential and commercial structures: asphalt shingles, roll roofing, wood shingles and shakes, clay tile, slate, metal, built-up, and elastomeric. Covers sheathing and underlayment techniques, as well as secrets for installing leakproof valleys. Many estimating tips help you minimize waste, as well as insure a profit on every job. Troubleshooting techniques help you identify the true source of most leaks. Over 300 large, clear illustrations help you find the answer to just about all your roofing questions. Perimeter of a Sloped Roof, 17 Net Versus Gross Roof Area, 17 Calculating Total Net Roof Area, 18 Roof Overhangs, Hips and Valleys, 21 Length of Ridge (Hip Roofs), 22 2 Roof Sheathing, Decking and Loading, 23 3 Underlayment on Sloping Roofs, 35 Saturated Felt Underlayment, 36 Saturated Fiberglass Underlayment, 36 Estimating Underlayment Quantities, 49 Eaves Flashing (Ice Shield or Water Shield), 61 Flashing at Chimneys and Other Vertical Structures, 96 Number of Shingles Required per Square, 108 Number of Shingle Courses, 109 Estimating Asphalt Strip Shingle Quantities, 113 Estimating Ribbon-Course Quantities, 124 Estimating Asphalt Shingle Roofing Costs, 130 5 Mineral Surfaced Roll Roofing, 131 Installing Mineral-Surfaced Roll Roofing, 133 Estimating Mineral-Surfaced Roll Roofing, 144 Waste from Non-conforming Roof Layout, 146 Estimating Mineral-Surfaced Roll Roofing Costs, 157 6 Wood Shingles and Shakes, 159 Installing Wood Shingles and Shakes, 164 Covering Capacity of Shakes, 174 Covering Capacity of Wood Shingles, 174 Estimating Wood Shingle and Shake Quantities, 176 Sidewall Shakes and Wood Shingles, 185 Estimating Wood Shingle Roofing Costs, 196 Underlayment Under Tile Roof Coverings, 199 Flashing at Vertical Walls, 217 Estimating Tile Quantities, 225 Estimating Total Tile Roofing Costs, 229 Slate Size, Color and Texture, 231 Installation on a Sloping Roof, 234 Estimating Slate Quantities, 249 Estimating Slate Roofing Costs, 254 9 Metal Roofing and Siding, 255 Modern Metal Panel Systems, 256 Installing Metal Roofing Panels, 257 Estimating Metal Roofing and Siding, 269 Steel Roofing and Siding Quantities, 270 Ribbed Metal Panel Quantities, 271 Miscellaneous Metal Roofing Quantities, 275 Base Sheets (Vapor Retarders), 298 Built-up Roofing Warranties, 327 Built-up Roofing Repairs and Re-roofing, 329 The Advantages of Elastomeric Systems, 334 Liquid-applied Elastomers, 335 Single-Ply Roofing Systems, 338 Composite Roofing Systems, 343 Flashings for Elastomeric Roofs, 344 Estimating Elastomeric Roofing, 345 12 Insulation, Vapor Retarders and Waterproofing, 347 The Benefits of Insulation, 347 Weatherproofing Existing Homes, 364 13 Roofing Repair and Maintenance, 381 Finding the Source of Leaks, 381 Estimating Re-Roofing Quantities, 401 14 Estimating (and Maximizing) Production Rates, 411 Estimating with Published Prices, 415 Appendix A Roof Slope Factors, 428 Appendix B Valley Length Factors, 429 Appendix C Equations Used in This Book, 430 Measuring and Calculating Roofs If you're like some roofing contractors, you estimate roofing quantities by calculating the area of a roof, then adding 10 percent for waste. That might be OK in a fat building market, but in a tight market you'll need a sharper pencil to compete successfully for the good jobs, and then make money on them. In this book, I'm going to show you how to make a quick and accurate takeoff for any kind of roof. You'll also learn the latest and most acceptable roofing methods in an industry where installation practices are closely related to warranties. That's because material warranties may be invalid if you don't follow the manufacturer's recommendations for installation. Look here for general guidelines, but always follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. New products come on the market every day to solve the complex roof covering requirements presented by modern building technology. Your job is to know as much as you can about those products. You also have to know how to install them so the job passes inspection and presents no future repair and maintenance problems. Callbacks are hard on your profit margin and they don't do your reputation any good either. Know as much as you can about your roofing business, and you'll avoid them. This book is more than an estimating book for roofing contractors. It develops a system, beginning with Chapter 1, for all types of roofing materials and installation methods. We'll cover the entire roofing trade, including how to manage your crews and keep them safe. So let's get started. When you construct a roof on a new building, you can get these measurements from the plans. On repair or replacement jobs, you'll probably have to take your pencil, clipboard and tape measure, haul out your ladder, climb onto the roof, and start measuring. To avoid mistakes, or a second trip to the job site, develop a system for taking measurements. Use a 100-foot flexible tape which has a 1/2-inch grout hook at the "stupid" end of the tape. Flexible tapes are made of metal, or fiberglass-reinforced nylon fabric. Find a tape that's marked with highlights at 5-inch intervals to match the exposure of most composition shingles. There is no cardinal rule for the sequence you use to measure a roof, as long as you don't miss anything. Here's a system that works for me: Start by measuring the length of the eaves. On a gable roof, you only have to measure in one direction. On a hip roof, you'll have to measure the eaves in two directions. Next, measure the width of the roof. On a gable roof, hook the tape over one of the eaves, and run it over the ridge to the opposite eave. On a hip roof, measure the width the same way. To measure the length, hook the tape to the eaves at the ridge rafter (look ahead to Figure 1-16 on page 13 for an illustration of the parts of a roof), run the tape the length of the ridge and down the opposite ridge rafter. Measure the ridge at the same time. Now, measure the hips and valleys by hooking the tape to a building comer and running the tape to the ridge. You use these measurements to calculate material requirements such as valley flashing and hip-covering material. Always make a sketch of the roof layout, including dimensions, roof slopes, location of penetrations and any unusual circumstances such as rotten deck areas, ventilation problems, or overhanging tree branches or other obstructions. Once you have the measurements, you'll use them to calculate areas, slopes, angles, and allowance factors. Lets begin with an easy example. The dimensions on the plans give you the actual measurements for a level roof. To get the area of a rectangular roof, multiply its length by its width. Area of a level rectangular roof = L x W where L is the length and W is the width. Of course, not every roof you work on will be a single rectangle. You may need to figure the area of a roof like the one in Figure 1-1. There are two ways to calculate this area: In the positive method, you divide the roof into rectangular areas, then add the parts to get the total area. See Figure 1-2. With the negative method, you extend the roof lines to form a single rectangle. Calculate the area of this rectangle, and subtract the areas of the rectangular spaces which lie outside the actual roof. Example 1-1: The Positive Method Divide the roof into rectangles as shown in Figure 1-2. Calculate the area of each rectangle, then add them together: Area A = 20 feet by 60 feet, or 1,200 square feet Area B = 20 feet by 40 feet, or 800 square feet Area C = 20 feet by 20 feet, or 400 square feet 1,200 SF + 800 SF + 400 SF, or 2,400 SF Example 1-2: The Negative Method Extend the roof lines to form one rectangle, as in Figure 1-3. Calculate the total area of that rectangle, then subtract the areas of any rectangles which aren't in the actual roof: Extended rectangle = 60' x 60' = 3,600 SF Area A = 40 feet by 20 feet, or 800 square feet Area B = 20 feet by 20 feet, or 400 square feet Total area outside the roof layout is 800 SF + 400 SF, or 1,200 SF. Subtract that from the extended area to get the total area: 3,600 SF - 1,200 SF = 2,400 SF You get the same answer both ways. So you might as well use the easiest method - the one that requires the fewest calculations. For example, in Figure 1-4 you'd have to calculate three areas, then add them together. But in Figure 1-5 you only have to calculate two areas, and then subtract one from the other. (please look at our rules and privacy policy) |
a_clark@machine--tools.com (Abby Clark) for additional information. This email is used for forwarding to newsgroup user.
